June 2019 – Northern BC & The Yukon Territory – Alaska Part 3
Continuing our trek northward our next stop brought us to St. George, BC. St George is the biggest city we had seen for sometime and although the weather wasn’t great while visiting the area we managed to stock up on provisions at a Costco in town. The only challenge was Costco’s in Canada don’t accept Visa cards so we had to use a Mastercard that fortunately we carry just in case of situations like this.
The campground we stayed at was Mama Yeh. Although the owner is doing everything he can to make this new business venture into a winning enterprise it was actually our least favorite spot since beginning our Alaska adventure. We dry camped for several days and rested given the rainy forecast/conditions.
Departing ST George, BC we headed for a Municipal Park, in the town of Fraser Lake, BC. Joanne had found this site on one of the message boards she has been following during our trip. The name of the Municipal Park is Swan Lake and it just might have been the best deal we have happened on since leaving in early May. The campsites (while no hook-ups) are pull-throughs with incredible waterfront views of Fraser Lake. (Note: the cost is absolutely FREE!)
Though their are no hook-ups both Joanne commented how clean the bathrooms were and how realaxing the stay was. One day we actually needed to make a run for some wine and after inquiring with Siri we discovered a Liquor store just up the hill from the campground which we walked to with our back-packs and returned with our bottles for afternoon cocktails… (We rationalized we were actually excercizing to get our wine…)
Another interesting moment at Fraser Lake occurred when Joanne saw another camper coming down the hill to overnight as well the second night. This was a first for us as the 30 Vintage class A Trek Motorhome was towing a flat bed trailer behind with a small helicopter. I kid you not! We quickly became friends with these new neighbors (David & Maggie from San Diego, CA) over a camfire that evening and they shared their story regarding their most unique tow vehicle (a 2 seat Robison Helicopter ). They both were pilots and can take off and land from the flat-bed. They are big-time into fishing and they shared many stories of fishing expeditions and adventures with us…
Leaving Fraser Lake we continued North next towards the famous Cassiar Highway. The Cassiar is a beautiful drive that actually cuts about 130 miles off the ALCan and arrives at the AlCan just north of Watson Lake.
Our first stop for the night was at Meziadin Lake Provincial Park. Meziadin is a first come/first serve park and we were fortunate to arrive early enough to get a campsite right on the water for a few nights. Although the campsite was nothing less than amazing, this was the first time since starting our Alaska adventure that we were confronted with the infamous North Country Mosquito population. Fortunately from our camping days at Assategue Island in Maryland we were well prepared and between our Pic Stiks, Coils, and Thermocell, we were able to create a 10 foot circle barrier so we could enjoy a campfire, lake and some wildlife.
Meziadin Lake Provincial Park is a great strategic stop on the Cassiar as it provides access to Hyder, AK, and Stewart, BC, via the 40-mile/64-km Stewart-Hyder access road (Highway 37A) from Meziadin Junction at milepost junction 97.
We spent and entire day driving to Stewart and then crossing the border into Hyder, AK. Although the southernmost point in Alaska, this was was actually our first time ever crossing the border into the 49th state. Hyder, AK is a very small hamlet? with a post office, a few homes, the home of the famous Fish Creek BEAR viewing area, and the Salmon glacier. Given we were here the early part of June and no Salmon were running yet, the BEARs hadn’t arrived yet. Regardless we toured the area and then headed back over the border to Stewart and eventually back to our campsite in Meziadin. The drive from Meziadin to Hyder is beautiful, even in the rain…
After a few days at Meziadin Lake we continued North on the Cassiar stopping at Dease Lake, Jade City, Good Hope Lake and finally arrived at the next stop Joanne had researched, Boya Lake Provincial Park. Boya Lake campground is another first come/first serve park with many campsites situated on the most beautiful blue/green glacial fed water area. We managed to get a campsite right on the water and decided to park head first with our front window of the coach looking over the majestic waterway. We hiked several trails in the park during our stay here and just down -right enjoyed another beautiful water view for the next few days. …
We loved Boya Lake though needed to continue north after a couple of days. Boya isn’t far from the top of the Cassiar and at the junction of the Cassiar and the AlCan is a little oasis called Nugget City. Since we had departed early this day we decided to treat ourselves to breakfast here. After fueling up with food/gas we started our first miles on the infamous AlCan highway just north of Watson Lake. The path up the Cassiar eliminated the need to start at Mile “0” of the Alcan in Dawson Creek which we will pass through on our return to the lower 48 several months form now…
Until getting on the AlCan our drive had been on nearly all good paved roads though it was the AlCan where we were finally confronted with our first exposure to the construction, gravel, seal coating, frost heaves, and the damage roads going north are famous for. It wasn’t long that we quickly realized our little Mini Cooper convertible tow car was in for some tough going the farther we headed north. One construction stop I got out to inspect the car and discovered an entire pile of gravel/stones on the hood along with 2 windshield dings (and we were just getting started)…
The drive, while rough, still had some very scenic bright spots including the “Nisultin Bay Bridge” – the longest water span on the Alaska Highway. We stopped for gas just over the bridge at Yukon Motel & Lakeshore RV Park , continuing on to Teslin and finally arrived in Whitehorse…We are finally in the Yukon Territory…
I’d be remiss not to let you know the AlCan wasn’t just hard on the Mini this day, we actually suffered some significant damage to the full wall slide wood fascia driving through all that construction. We weren’t 50 miles from Whitehorse,YT when all of the sudden we heard some strange cracking noises and then the entire wood slide fascia came crashing down into the center of the coach. Thank goodness we were both in our seats when it happened as between the weight, plywood, nails, hardware, and glass from the scale we have that shattered through-out the coach when the fascia struck it, things could have been even worse then they were…
After completing the repairs of the RV and the Mini we finally checked into our campground in Whitehorse, YT. Although we rarely stay in RV Resorts we definitely needed to catch up on some laundry at this stop!
Whitehorse, YT turned out to be a good stop for us where we were able to shop for provisions, get some laundry done, fix the RV & Mini, and visit a few museums and tourist attractions. Some of high points were:
Whitehorse in the Yukon Territory is one of the most famous stops from the history of the The Klondike Gold Rush, often called the Yukon Gold Rush. Many of the prospectors that ventured into the Yukon/Alaskan frontier with hopes of fame and fortune started their adventure after landing in the port of Skagway, AK which is only about 100 miles South of Whitehorse, YT. The trek from Skaway to Whitehorse required one of 2 very difficult paths. 1) The Chilkoot Trail or 2) The White Pass Trail which was eventually accessed by train called The White Pass & Yukon Route Railway opened in 1898. Because many pack animals became stuck and died before the railroad was opened, the trail also was known as“The Dead Horse Trail.” It’s estimated 3,000 horses died on the White Pass.
Both of the routes proved very challenging for the unprepared prospectors with only about 30,000 people actually arriving in Dawson City, YT eventually. The railroad is a marvel of engineering despite the harsh weather and challenging geography faced by thousands of railroad construction workers. Many tourists and cruise lines make the White Pass Railroad a highpoint of their visit to this area. We decided to drive the Klondike Highway from Whitehorse, YT through Carcross and then arriving at the port of Skagway, AK. instead of taking the railroad. The drive, glaciers, and wildlife proved to be spectacular!
A few pics from the Klondike Highway:
Our visit to Skagway included the Klondike Gold Rush National Historical Park Tour of downtown, “The Day’s of 98′ Show” about the folk hero “Soapy Smith” (of course Mike was picked to be on-stage), a tasting flight and lunch at The Skagway Brewery, and then another great drive on the return…
Wow… A lot happened over theses few weeks as we continue our time and trek North thorough British Columbia, The Yukon Territory and, our first stops in Alaska. It’s hard to believe we are just starting our time in Alaska and can’t wait to see where we visit next on this “Revolutionary Journey”….