2024 – October (White Sands – Guadalupe – Big Bend National Park)
Monday 10/7/2024- White Sands NP
As we say our goodbyes to our caravaning friends Gordon and Debbie it is not too sad as we know we will see them over the winter in SoCal as they too have a “Snowbird” lot at Desert Shadows RV Resort. They are heading North to Page, AZ and we are heading South to see three National Parks we haven’t been to yet. They have a 6-8 hr drive day while we have a 4 hr drive day. We top off the propane in the RV and the portable tank(for the fire pit) before pulling out and head down the highway towards Alamogordo, NM. Our destination today is Oliver Lee Memorial State Park which will be conveniently close to the city of Alamogordo and White Sands National Park.
We both smile when we arrive at our campsite here. It’s the exact type of camping we like to do; Rustic, peaceful, big/private sites, dark skies for star gazing, and great scenic views. It doesn’t take long to park the RV and we both immediately comment that this campground reminds both of us of Gilbert Ray in Tucson (another one of our favorites). A campfire after dinner and then to bed as we have full day of exploration planned for tomorrow!
Not a bad view from our campsite in Oliver Lee Memorial State Park…
The mountains from our front window…
Tuesday 10/8/24- White Sands National Park
We have a relaxing morning before heading out to White Sands National Park hoping to arrive around 10:00am.
White Sands National Park is a stunning and unique natural landscape known for its vast expanse of white gypsum sand dunes. Covering approximately 275 square miles, it is the largest gypsum dune field in the world. The park’s striking white sands are the result of gypsum crystals that have eroded from the surrounding mountains and accumulated over thousands of years in the Tularosa Basin.
The park’s environment is a mix of desert, grassland, and dunes, creating a diverse ecosystem. Visitors can explore the dunes through hiking, picnicking, and even sledding down the sand hills. The area is also rich in wildlife, including birds, reptiles, and mammals like foxes and mule deer.
In addition to its natural beauty, White Sands holds archaeological significance, with evidence of human presence in the region dating back over 10,000 years. The park is also a site of scientific interest due to the rare gypsum dunes and the surrounding desert environment.
White Sands was established as a national monument in 1933 and later designated a national park in 2019. Its surreal landscape and tranquility make it a popular destination for outdoor enthusiasts and photographers.
Arriving at the Visitor’s center we take the customary “National Park Entrance Pic”, then walk around the visitor center/museum for awhile before deciding to drive the “Parks Scenic Drive” . It doesn’t take long until the paved road disappears and we’re driving on compacted sand and gypsum. The views are nice but the roadway creates a ton of dust and is making a mess of our poor little convertible.
White Sands National Park Visitor’s Center…
White Sands National Park Visitor’s Center…
At this point we aren’t sure we want to continue, but we push on hesitantly. Between the road dust, the video not being available at the visitor’s center, and the first two of the pull outs along the scenic road closed we are a little disappointed. Not long after this the road turns into a “Washboard” . Dust, sand and road chatter for miles and miles. We get to a large pull-out and see some people up on the sand dunes so follow suit. We take off our flops and decide to walk barefooted. The sand is super fine and white and we have been told it’s really good for your feet. We can vouch it feels very good on the feet while walking.
Beautiful Mountains in the distance…
A moment of reflection in White Sands National Park…
We capture plenty of good pics on our walk and after about an hour both agree we’ve pretty much seen what we wanted here and no sense in continuing on our drive deeper into the park. Glad we have checked it off our list, though agree it’s not someplace we need to come back to or to spend more time in.
Since it’s still pretty early in the day we next decide to drive to the local Pistachio Farm which does tours and has wine tastings. It is called Heart of the Desert Pistachio Farm. We go into the gift shop to ask about the tour and find out it’s free and going to start in a few minutes. There is only one other young couple on the tour with us. Our tour guide (Lisa) is very personable and keeps us engaged for the 45 minute tour. We begin in the gift shop with a short video. Next up she takes us into the field and gives detailed information about the trees and pollination process. From there we go into the “production shop” where machines sort through and clean them, heat them, and go through final inspection, where they make sure they are all slightly opened. Lastly we see where they are roasted and flavored. Lot’s of very different seasonings for sure. A very interesting process!
The Heart of the Desert…
The Pistachio Trees…
Once the tour ends we do a wine tasting in a part of the gift shop. We decide to purchase a bottle (along with some pistachios for Mike and earrings for Joanne) and then sit on the back deck overlooking the pistachio fields enjoying a glass of wine from the bottle we purchased.
Enjoying our bottle of wine and some pistachios at the Heart of the Desert…
We totally enjoyed our day in Alamogordo! I think we would both agree that White Sands NP would not have been enough for the day but adding in the Pistachio Farm made the day awesome! The nice part of this RV lifestyle is the flexibility it gives us and the ability to call an audible for a day of exploration.
Wednesday 10/9/24- Guadalupe NP
Our drive today is to Guadalupe National Park in Texas. It’s not far from White Sands area and fortunately we arrive early afternoon. We had heard there are not many campsites here so we had made reservations, and it was a good thing we did.
Crossing the border into Texas…
The view as we approach the Guadalupe Mountains National Park Entrance…
Guadalupe Mountains National Park…
Only about 12 campsites here, and it’s really just a parking lot at the base of three mountains . The main rule of this campground is you have to have all aspects of your camper and tow car inside the lines of the site. We had reserved an end site, though it did take some maneuvering to make sure we were within the boundaries and able to open our slides and park the MINI too. We had gotten gas before we made the last push in and so happy we did as there are NO stations for the last 100 miles; in fact there is nothing at all in services before we entered the hill up the mountain to the campground. The campground is literally a parking lot with white lined slots indicating camping spots. We were lucky enough to get an end spot which enabled us to open both slides. We fit with the car just fine but if the RV had been one foot longer or if we had a bigger toad we would not have fit.
Our campsite in Guadalupe…
Yes we just fit in the campsite here…
Again- this is just the kind of camping we love to do. The views were amazing right from the RV. The Guadalupe Mountains were surrounding us, it was quiet and peaceful. There is a bathroom with sinks and toilets but with only being here two nights and having dumped before we left the last campground we would be fine until we got to Big Bend National Park where we will have full hook-ups. Because we can walk to the visitor’s center right from the campground we do that today so we can make a plan for tomorrow. Alas, at the visitor’s center Mike see’s a full day hike to the top of the highest peak that he wants to do while Joanne see’s a more relaxing 8 mile roundtrip hike from another section of the park. After some discussion we decide to do the more relaxed hike and it is a great choice.
Joanne getting her NPS Passport Stamp at the Visitor’s Center…
Thursday 10/10/24:
We have a good breakfast, since we are doing a long hike. We are sure to pack a sufficient amount of water and even then by the time the end of the hike is near Mike is out of water and Joanne is nearly out. Fortunately we did have some Powerade in the car for the ride home. We both loved this hike; the McKittrick Canyon Hike to the Grotto and includes a cabin along the way. It was interesting to see the two cabins and imagine how people lived back then. We also met some great people that we keep running into. It would be dapper many people take this path from White Sands to Guadalupe, and then Big Bend. We both really enjoyed our stop in Guadalupe NP. I know Mike would have loved to do the peak hike but maybe another time. This campground was a convenient location, with dark skies at night for star gazing and very peaceful and quiet. As we sat enjoying the mountain views after our day, with a glass of wine, a young boy spots something about 2 yards from us in the parking lot and we head over to see what al the commotion is about. There is a large tarantula walking across the parking lot! This is the first tarantula we have seen win the wild in al our camping. Very Cool… After taking pics of it, we just let it meander on its way, while Joanne comments she certainly is happy she isn’t sleeping in a tent tonight!!
Our creepy, crawling tarantula…
Pretty nice views on the McKittrick Canyon Hike…
The Grotto along the hike…
Definitely was a good 8 mile out-n-back…
While sitting outside during the early evening Mike saw a photographer setting up for some dark sky pics not far form our campsite. Mike walked over to him to talk about his equipment and while Joanne went in to start dinner. After dinner we were sitting in our RV watching a movie when someone came knocking on our door. Turned out it was the photographer who strongly encouraged us to come outside to see the Northern Lights. We said “WHAT”, “Northern Lights this far South NO WAY”. Nonetheless we excited th RV and were rewarded with some incredible Night Sky Views. We have hoped to see Northern Lights for years and have never seen them even when we visited Alaska. Looking Skyward we were spellbound with some of the most incredible Red/Purple Sky Glows we have ever seen. Who would ever believe when we finally got a chance to se Northern Lights it would happen in Southern Texas!!!
“Northern Lights” in Guadalupe NP… WOW!!!!
Friday 10/11/24- Big Bend National Park
This park seems to always be on our agenda year after year after year… yet we always seem to pass it by as we are anxious to get to SoCal and begin to settle for the snowbird season. 2024 we are determined to get to “Big Bend National Park”! The drive from Guadalupe to Big Bend is long but pretty straight forward. Just head South to the border of Texas and Mexico! We decided long ago to stay in a private park instead of inside the park dry camping. Many of the campgrounds near the park and in the park are rustic with limited services at best. We opted to stay with Full Hook-Ups at Lajitas Golf Resort/Maverick Ranch RV Park. Once we pull into our site (with a spectacular view) we get set up, put our suits on, and head to the pool. It’s hot and the pool is very refreshing. We met some people there that are staying for a good portion of the fall in this park- though neither of us can figure out why! There is really not much in the area- everything is a long drive e except hiking though if you want privacy this might be perfect…! Mike takes a swim while Joanne just soaks her feet in the water. Joanne had read up on the park and area and had settled on a few hikes and a scenic drive. So we set our plan for tomorrow.
Our drive from Albuquerque South to Big Bend and then envutally back to SoCal!
Saturday 10/12/24: Big Bend National Park-
Big Bend National Park in Texas is known for its stunning landscapes, diverse wildlife, and rich history. Here’s a tour of some of the must-see stops in the park:
Some of the places we stopped during our stay:
1. Chisos Basin
• What to Expect: The Chisos Basin is the heart of Big Bend, offering fantastic views of the surrounding mountains. The basin is surrounded by the Chisos Mountains and is a great spot for hiking, camping, and stargazing. It’s home to the famous Lost Mine Trail and Window Trail, which offer breathtaking views of the desert and mountains.
• Best For: Hiking, scenic views, wildlife spotting, and stargazing.
2. The Window
• What to Expect: A dramatic view through the rock formation that looks out over the desert below. The Window Trail is a 5.6-mile round-trip hike that leads to the “window” opening in the cliffs, offering one of the park’s most iconic views.
• Best For: Short but rewarding hikes with incredible views.
We actually did this hike after the Lost Mine Trail on the same day. We parked in the Chisos Campground and entered the trail head form there. It’s a long hike in-n-out though deftly worth it. The only real challenge their wa a large bees nest and they were very active as we got to the narrowing of the trail near “The Window Lookout”. Pretty cool spot for sure.
The entire way to “the window” was downhill- which meant that the entire hike back would be uphill in the sun and heat. With about 2 miles left we were gassed and just about out of water. But we plugged along and we very happy when we reached the end.
The view through the Window Trail…
Bee’s where everywhere near this spot on “The Window Trail”…
3. Santa Elena Canyon
• What to Expect: This stunning canyon is located along the Rio Grande River and features towering cliffs that rise dramatically from the water. The Santa Elena Canyon Trail is a relatively short, 1.7-mile round-trip hike that takes you into the canyon and offers incredible photo opportunities.
• Best For: Scenic views, photography, and hiking.
We arrive at the Santa Elena Canyon Trailhead early in the morning. It was a pretty significant drive form our campgound to the park entrance and then eventually to the trailhead. The hike is along the Rio Grande River. It isn’t difficult and a must do if you come to the park. Beautiful!!!
In the afternoon we decide to take our time on the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive to the other side of the park to visit Chisos Basin.
Santa Elena Canyon…
Santa Elena Canyon…
Heading into the Canyon…
The Canyon from across the desert…
4. Mule Ears Overlook
• What to Expect: The Mule Ears are two distinctive rock formations that stand out against the vast desert landscape. The overlook offers a perfect panoramic view of the formations and the surrounding desert.
• Best For: Photography and scenic views.
Mule Ears…
5. Panther Junction
• What to Expect: The park’s main visitor center, where you can stop to learn more about the park’s history, wildlife, and geology. It’s also a good spot to pick up maps and talk to rangers about current conditions or hiking trails.
• Best For: Information, starting your journey, and road trip planning.
We visited Panther Junction Visitor Center late one afternoon where we got to watch the Beg Bend NP Film. We then picked the brain of one of the rangers and developed a plan to visit to “Big Bend Ranch State Park.”
Joanne got another passport stamp and they had some good information here about the park. It was the busier of the Visitor Centers.
6. Lost Mine Trail
• What to Expect: A popular 4.8-mile round-trip hike that offers stunning views of the Chisos Mountains and the desert below. It’s a moderate hike but offers some of the best scenic views in the park.
• Best For: Hiking, panoramic views, and a relatively moderate challenge.
Special Note: you have to get to this trailhead EARLY. There are a limited # of parking spots and it fills quickly. We actually arrived before sunrise and snagged one of the last spots. We actually left our campground by 6:30am and arrived at the parking lot and trailhead by 7:30am and there are two slots left! So happy we were able to get parking! The trail is a good one and the views are spectacular especially with the sun just coming up! The trail is about 5 miles round trip and it is challenging but fun.
Sun coming up on “The Lost Mine Trail”…
Sun coming up as we hike “The Lost Mine Trail”…
Views from our early morning hike of the Top of the “Lost Mine Tour”…
Lost Mine Tour…
Views of the Chisos Mountains from Lost Mine Trail…
Sunday 10/13/25: Big Bend State Park
Big Bend Ranch State Park…
Joanne had read about Big Bend Ranch State Park and we also had several people recommend not to miss the scenic drive along 170 through the park. In addition to the incredible scenery there is a slot canyon hike about halfway through the drive we are planning to do. Fortunately we had filled up our gas tank yesterday, on our way home from the national park. so we are good to go early in the morning! It’s going to be a long drive …
Right from the get-go we recognize it is going to be a spectacular drive today! The road is like a roller coaster ride in our MINI! The curves, grades, in addition to the views, make for a very memorable drive! We stop several times to get some pics, then stop for the hike through the slot canyon. The slot canyon is mostly shaded so it is comfortable regardless of the hot temps. The only bad thing is the hike just inst long enough! Once we finish the hike we continue on to Presidio, TX where we refill our gas tank again for the return trip. On the return we stop at historic Fort Leaton for a quick walk through. The drive home seems shorter though of course it is equal distance. Without stops it goes much faster.
A stop along I-70 adjacent to the River…
Good view of the roads up and downs…
Some very steep spots on this road…
Some great rock formations…
The Slot Canyon Hike…
Given you a little contrast to how bigg the canyon was…
On the way back form Presidio we stopped at Historic Fort Leaton…
The drive through Beg Bend State Park we both comment might be even better than the drive through Big Bend National Park. It had everything. One of the most scenic drives in the lower 48 we have seen. If you visit this area this drive just has to be part of your plans!
Arriving back at our campground we decide to stop at the Resort connected to the Campground. We had no idea the resort was as big as it was. Beautiful setting, with a restaurant , golf course, Hotel, and shops… We decide to enjoy a glass of wine and some wings on the patio. Hard to believe we are the only ones sitting outside! We consider getting dinner here tonight, but decide to head back across the street to the camper where Joanne makes some salmon and we can enjoy a free glass of wine, with a beautiful view right from our camper!
Having a rewarding glass of wine after “Big Bend State Park”….
Texas is a BIG state and has so many cultural and geographic unique places to visit. Big Bend National Park is no doubt one of the most difficult places to visit in the lower 48 as it’s just so far out of the way. After all these years we were so glad we finally added it to our list visited places. Big Bend Ranch State Park was an added Bonus and we can’t stress enough how you need to drive/visit it as well!
Reflecting back on 2024 we certainly have packed a lot into this year’s “Revolutionary Journey”. Next stop is arriving at our Snowbird spot at DSRV so we can quickly set-up and then fly to Boston to visit our family and granddaughter Mac. Our kids have asked us to do a little babysitting while they attend a wedding in Charleston, SC. Seems like a Win-Win. They have reliable babysitting, we get to spend a couple of Fall days, including Halloween, in New England, while also spending quality time with Mac. We haven’t been in New England during the Fall in a few years and we love the colors, smells, crisp nights, and of course the Halloween decorations.