Departing Cabelas in Idaho Falls, after a night of dry camping we were excited about the sunshine and fair weather in the forecast today. Although we visited the Grand Tetons back in 2001 with the kids, we were so looking forward to spending the next 5 days in Jackson Hole and surrounding area again. We have such great memories of that 2001 trip and it seems like just yesterday we saw our son Sean chasing a calf around the downtown rodeo arena and winning the prize for the night. Long story, but does it ever bring laughter to the family reminiscing that moment…
We had never driven from Idaho Falls, ID to Jackson Hole, Wyoming before, though had driven many steep passes in North America so weren’t too concerned. We should have been… The Grand Teton Pass is one of the toughest passes in North America especially in an RV towing a car. The physics of descending in a 25k – 40k RV really can push systems to the edge. It is very steep, with long straight-away, that really taxes a rigs brake system and engine breaking… We probably noticed more “breakaway/runaway” precautions adjacent to the road than any other road in North America. The drive is spectacular for sure, with exceptionally long paths of steep descent. I don’t get nervous much on these types of roads but this road demands your respect and critical attention. While beautiful it is a daunting experience, and is not for the fainthearted… With my Tow/Haul feature engaged providing much needed engine breaking, I still had to stab at my breaks often to slow down. Often the engine was screaming at over 5,000 RPM’s on the descent. Even with just stabbing at the breaks you are bound to get “hot brakes”. Fact is about three quarters of the way down I found a pull -out so I could pull over for nearly 45 minutes just so my brakes could cool. This road was one of the only roads I have ever smelled my brakes starting to overheat. Apparently there is an auto service shop, at the base of the pass and all it does is brake jobs for vehicles descending Grand Teton Pass. They are are a busy business. Also (take note) many years they have had runaways with some fatalities. Nonetheless the drive worked out fine with the right precautions. Not sure if I would do it again unless absolutely necessary. There are a few alternate routes that are longer ways to Jackson Hole, Wyoming… (Definitely worth considering)
Click the link below to learn more about Teton Pass and cautions…
As we descend into Jackson Hole we remember some landmarks since our last visit and look forward to visiting downtown over the next few days. For now our destination is Gros Ventre Campground in Grand Teton National Park just north of Jackson Hole. We arrive around noon (or shortly before) and are greeted by the camp hosts that check us in. We are able to dump and take on water before we get to our site. We hadn’t planned to do that as we had only been two nights since the last time we dumped, but since we added an additional night and would now be here dry camping for 5 nights we decided we should do that.
A moose at the entrance to Gros Ventre Campground…
We have been dry camping at National and State Parks since we left Desert Shadows and are finding that it is actually easier to camp this way; easier set up because we don’t have to get hoses, filters, cords, plumbing supplies out… and then easier to tear down because we don’t have to put all that away! Joanne usually puts more things out inside the camper to make it seem homier (pics on the dash and other decorative things) but we decided even before we left the desert that we were going to try camping more simply / minimally this year. We both seem to be embracing the strategy!
Once we get situated, we head out to the Craig Thomas Visitor Center, which is very close to the campground. We only have to drive but about 5 miles. We see the National Park Film there, Joanne gets her passport stamped, we talk with the rangers about hikes, where we can go to see wildlife and perspectives on the road to the north connecting this Grand Teton NP to Yellowstone NP. Currently the South entrance is closed but may open by the time we leave. If not we will have to find an alternative around taking the Teton Pass again. Friday they are expecting a big snowstorm so rumors are that the road won’t open! But we’ll see.
Our campsite with moose roaming by…
Grand Teton NP Vistors Center…
Of course another National Park Passport Stamp…
Once we get back we get a game out and have a relaxing evening planning to hike Jenny’s Lake the next day in addition to driving the loop road.
5/11/2022:
Teton National Park
Today looks to be an amazing day weather wise. Although here at the campground it seems very nice and comfortably warm, with the right clothing on, we never know what to expect at other areas of the park so we throw extra jackets in the trunk just in case. We begin the 42 mile Scenic loop road and do see some wildlife; bison, pronghorn antelope, moose, and elk, But no bears! Not sure if that is good or bad! We want to see some just not up close and personal! We make a stop at the Colter Bay Visitor Center. It is not as nice as the one at Moose Junction. But we pick the ranger’s brain before heading back out.
Oxbow Bend Turnout Lookout…
As we drove the loop road we stop at many overlooks. The views are spectacular! We picked a good day to take pics and do this drive; the forecast is not looking as good.
42 Mile Loop Drive Grand Teton National Park…
Oxbow Bend Turnout Lookout…
Joanne checking out the American Bison Heard on the Loop Road…
Jackson Lake Dam…
The Grand Teton sign with the Tetons in the background…
About 2/3rds into the drive we finally arrive a the trail head that should lead us to Jenny Lake Trail. As we are set to begin the 7.9 mile loop there area few people just coming off the trail. They tell us about some bear activity (Grizzlies), and that parts of the trail is covered with snow. We are still game. We’ve got our Bear spray, bear bells, our trekking poles so we are good to go and get on our way!
Getting on the Jenny Lake Trail…
Yes we are hiking in snow most of the day…
Jenny Lake…
Jenny Lake…
The trail is pretty easy to follow (until the end when it is not!) and the temps are just perfect for hiking. We had gloves in our backpacks but didn’t need them. The hike is awesome; probably one of the nicest hikes we have ever taken. The views all along the lake with the Grand Tetons in the background are just breathtaking. We stop several times along the way to enjoy them. The nice thing about here is that it stays light so late! Even though we started this (almost) eight mile hike around 2:00pm Joanne isn’t fretting about finishing in the dark! The front side of the hike has some snow but is mostly a dirt path. Once we get to the far side, at the base of the Teton mountains, it is almost all very deep snow. The path is packed so not too bad and easy to follow though some parts are slippery. A few times our trekking poles disappear into the snow up to our wrists….
This is a well trafficked hike so we pass plenty of people, so we are not to worried about bears, although two groups mentioned either seeing Grizzlies or speaking with people that spotted grizzlies on the path. One couple also said a Moose and its calf were also on the trail not far in front (We didn’t see either…) As we get to about the 6 mile mark the path becomes very deep snow which isn’t hard packed and becomes very difficult to follow. It would appear not many people have made it this far. The last two miles (although still beautiful) are drudgery for Joanne. Extremely deep snow with many parts of the trail unmarked…. Didn’t plan on having to bushwhack the last 2 miles in heavy snow …We are both getting tired and Joanne’s small slip into the snow definitely has her now getting a little anxious. Honestly we just stay focused with each just concentrating putting one foot in front of the other to get to the end…
Once we finish we feel like we have definitely accomplished something. We often say we feel more alive out in nature and hiking and this hike just had so much to offer! Arriving back at camp we realize how tired we really are. Although something else was planned for dinner, we decide on leftovers (soup and spaghetti and meatballs) to warm us up.
We reflect on this great day in Grand Teton National Park and think of how blessed we are to be living this life!
5/12/2022:
Teton National Park
While camping here we have seen moose several times wandering through the area. Just like on Assateague Island where the horses run wild through the campground, the wildlife is free to roam here as well and they do….. Very cool! It is very cold here (in the 20’s overnight) and today is cold and snowy. Since we did a major hike yesterday, our plan today is to listen to the JustAhead app (which we forgot to turn on when we got here!) and do the loop drive again, hopefully see some bears, and then head into Jackson to wander the shops and get some dinner.We love the Just Ahead App as it has so many back stories, history, geography, which really bring the park alive. It is like having our own personal tour guide. Highly recommend!
Yesterday Mike had noticed a rear brake light out so first thing on the agenda is to find a place to get the bulb and get it replaced. There is a Napa auto supply store in town and not even a mile past there is a service station (Levi’s) that gives us an appointment at 1:00 to replace the bulb. Both work out great and we are on our way!
We begin the loop drive probably around 2:00 and as we get closer to Colter Bay Area it begins to snow then it’s like a blizzard! Luckily down by the campground no snow. We do not see any bear, just lots of elk. The drive today is different than yesterday; as clear as yesterday was, today the clouds are all over the mountains and it is obviously snowing on them! Although it is different, it is still beautiful.
Yes the weather did come in again today with some snow squalls…
Grand Teton still peaking out from the weather…
We arrive in downtown Jackson Hole,Wyoming late afternoon and find convenient parking at the information center just a block from town center and wander along the boardwalk sidewalks in the square area. Lots of wonderful shops, but we are not shoppers so wander through and also get the classic Elk Antler Entrance picture at Jackson Hole Town Center…
Got to get the classic pict downtown…
We had read about the Million Dollar Cowboy Bar and while driving thru town had noticed it. Parking at the information center we got talking to Ranger/Information person and they encouraged us to go to The Silver Dollar Bar at the famous “Wort Hotel”… Both got good reviews so as we are strolling downtown we decide to walk thru both to investigate before deciding on the best for dinner and music. The Ranger was persuasive so we decide on the the Silver Dollar Bar… Good choice !!!
The Silver Dollar Bar…
The famous Worth Hotel downtown Jackson Hole…
The Cowboy Bar in Jackson Hole, Wyoming…
We get seated right away in the bar area and realize a band is going to begin playing in an hour. We gets drinks and apps to start so we can actually be there to listen to the band some. The food is good and the people watching even better! This is definitely a townie place with a few tourists scattered about. Silver Dollar Bar is part of the famous adjacent property known as “The Wort Hotel” . The reputation, history, artifacts, news clippings, and photos in the the Wort’s lobby areas all tell the story of this fabled watering-hole and stopover from the Wild West Past…
The band begins and we get a front row seat to watch some pretty cool Old Time West Dancing and Foot stomping…! a TRUE Western Bar with everyone sporting cowboy boots, cowboy hats, big buckles, and lots of Western wear…. With dancers all demonstrating loads of twirling, dipping, two step, and foot stomping! The band is fun and the crowd is loving their playlist! We stay until around 9:00pm and by the time we walk back to the car, drive back to our campsite it is almost ten.A full day for sure with Mike working hard to complete a post before crashing in a warm bed as Joanne wasted no time in doing… By this time it is pretty windy and cold outside with cold temperatures in the forecast for evening and early morning hours… We are planning another hike for tomorrow if the weather cooperates.
Good food, drinks music, and people watching!
5/13/2022:
After realizing the day was not going to be a hiking day we just relaxed at the campground. Joanne worked on her journal, Mike worked on some Desert Shadows website work. We did need to get some groceries before heading in to Yellowstone and Joanne needed to refill a prescription (CVS) so she called it into the CVS in Jackson and we headed in to pick up provisions. While there our good friends and neighbors from DSRV Resort Dennis and Debbie called. Debbie had broken her foot with only weeks to go before they leave on their Mediterranean cruise. We quickly plan a FaceTime for when we get back to the camper. We got gas in the Mini at Maverick in Jackson Hole and then head home for the Facetime.
We have many friends from DSRV that were planning to head up to our good friend Jeff’ A’s memorial service this weekend so conversation ends up around that topic. Terry and Daryl, Dennis and Debbie, Ken and Sherry, Guy & Wendy, and Garnet and Debbie will all be there and most likely a few others. Our friend Jeff was a larger than life neighbor of ours at DSRV. He had been fighting a condition for years though nonetheless approached life, and the world, with such a positive can-do attitude and always let us know “Life is Good”… His wife Jeri is a one in a million as well. We will all miss our good friend Jeff! Given our current location, reservations, and schedule it would be very difficult for us to be there in Northern Washington so our friends sent us a picture…
Celebrating the Life our our dear friend Jefff!
5/14/2022
Tetons National Park
Today looks to be no better than yesterday. Sad that this is the last day we will be here and we won’t get another hike in. just relaxing some after breakfast we decide to walk around the campground just to see if a hike might be possible. We are not outside the camper 5 minutes and realize a hike is not going to happen. With the rain and wind it is just too nasty. Instead we just decide to take another drive. Even though we have done similar drives, almost every day, we never know what wildlife will be lurking around a curve! And today we get lucky!
We had done the Gros Ventre Road where it connects with Antelope Flats Road, but never had taken the side road of Gros Ventre Road out to the Lower Slide Lake. Along that road we saw many long horn sheep!! A great side trip! Once back on the Antelope Flats Rd. We run across a few moose so get out to take a few pics! Up a little further on Pacific Creek rd we see a few more Moose but so disappointed that again we did not see any bear. The drive is nice but the mountains are all covered with clouds and we talk about how fortunate we were to have gotten here a day early to have been able to get such a great view of the Tetons Mountain Range and got the Jenny Lake hike in.
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After the loop road drive we talk about going into town again. Joanne had seen a shirt at the Pendleton store and we just had nothing else to do. Although they didn’t have the shirt in her size we did walk through a few other shops before landing in Roadhouse Brewery and Pub in the square and enjoyed a flight and snacks before heading back to camp where we need to do a little packing for our departure to the South Yellowstone entrance. The road had only opened for the season the day before then immediately closed again because of heavy snow.
Loving the Grand Tetons NP…
We head to bed hoping the Yellowstone South entrance will re-open again in the morning as the only alternatives to West Yellowstone and our next campground was either go back over the Teton Pass… (No Way!) or an alternative long loop way which would take us nearly the entire day. We’ll see????
Waking up for our travel day North to Yellowstone the weather gods seem to be cooperating and the sun is shining brightly. We had hoped to get the classic Barn picture with Grand Teton in the background but the wether hadn’t been cooperating. Today we were in luck!!!
The famous Classic Barn Scene with Grand Teton in the background!
Although the snow was over 1oft deep on the shoulders the Yellowstone South Entrance was open and we were able to continue our Revolutionary Journey to Americas first National Park. We have loved our time in Grand Teton though the mighty Yellowstone was calling us now ….
The snow banks on the Yellowstone South entrance….
Mike Nunan is a committed life long learner... Deciding to sell their Connecticut home after 30 years in 2018, where they raised their family, and then selling his business, followed by his wife Joanne deciding to retire from her 34 year teaching career, together they embarked on this full-time RV adventure... traveling, exploring, photographing, hiking, and enjoying this incredible world and gift we call life...
Moab, Utah - Arches National Park - CanyonLands National Park[...]
About us
RV'ers, Traveler's, & Bloggers
We are the Nunan's. College sweethearts who married 44 years ago. Joanne a teacher & Mike a professional photographer. We have 2 incredible adult children that we take pride in everyday and are thankful for the life, experience, and adventure we have on this "Revolutionary Journey"....