July 24 – July 31, 2019 – Heading South on The Alaska Highway …
Tuesday 7/23:
Departing our Escapers Rally Boondocking location is literally the turning point in our Alaska Adventure. We have been traveling North for months and today is the day we begin our turn-around point and start the long trek South again… We first must drive slightly North before connecting with the Alaska Highway in Tok, AK and then onto Delta Junction and South. The drive is (once again) not on good roads so it takes a bit longer then we expected. After seeing that we can dump, take on water/propane and wash the vehicles for free with a gas fill up at Tesoro in Tok, AK we spend about an hour doing some routine camping chores. Joanne has seen a recreation area to camp a little further South but we actually opt for a a great pull out above a lake with an amazing view of the Wrangell- Saint Elias Mountains. Another nice boondocking spot for an overnight. We are a little hesitant as the news has been continuous about the tragic murders of a few people around Liard Hot Springs that hasn’t been solved yet. The latest news has the two suspects in Saskatchewan so we felt we should be fine. We put the bear spray in the passenger seat back just in case! …This is an awesome boondocking site and we have a very quiet night.
Our Boondocking Spot South of Tok & Delta Junction…
Wednesday 7/24:
Today is a full out travel day. We leave our boondocking site and are headed to Haines Junction, crossing the border about an hour after leaving. Another bumpy ride but we do get a glimpse of a gray wolf about halfway there :-).
On the way through Haines Junction we fill up with gas as we heard it is quite expensive in Haines. We have a choice of a few campgrounds and decide to spend the night at Pine Lake Yukon Government Campground. In the past we have loved the Yukon Government Campgrounds; they are inexpensive at $9.00 US with free firewood and usually pretty quiet. This one is no different! We find a pull through site that is fairly level with lots of room. After registering we pick up some firewood, make some sausage and peppers and settle in by the campfire. Lots of families here so lots of activity. Tomorrow we head into Haines!
Pine Lake Campground…
Haines Junction… Making the turn to Haines, AK
7/25-7/28:
Haines Alaska!
The drive down into Haines is done on very good roads and the scenery is spectacular (though no wildlife). We had called in the morning and because the ferry system has just went on strike we are able to secure an ocean front campsite at Oceanside RV Park (though a little pricey at $40.00 / night for dry camping). When we arrive they allow us to dump and take on water from one of the full hook up sites that is not occupied yet (they usually charge for this). This campground is very convenient as it is right in town. We get set up and in the process meet a couple from LaGrange NY (close to where we both grew-up in the Hudson Valley). As we begin to chat we find we have so much in common (their son is getting married late Sept. while our daughter Cait’s wedding is Oct 5th. They had started full-timing about the same time as us, after selling their house, they also have a Newmar coach…)
Once we get parked we head up to explore downtown Haines. We already like the laid back feel here! As we look around at eateries, breweries, gift shops, and museums we discover that this weekend in The Southeast Alaska State Fair (which includes Juneau, Skagway, and Haines). Should be fun! This evening we decide to eat dinner at The Lighthouse Restaurant which is directly next to the campground. We share a bowl of seafood chowder and a platter of Fish and Chips. Yum…
As we head back to our campsite we get the propane fire pit out and sit on the edge of the cliff overlooking the water. Once again we look at each other and reflect on how fortunate we are for this adventure….
Oceanside RV Park – Haines, AK
Our Camp site view in Haines, AK…
Haines, AK…
Friday we look at the forecast and decide this will be the best day to do the fair. Our expectations are not very high because we know this is a very small area so there can’t possibly be a lot there. Plus, with the ferry system on strike, it prevents a lot of people that may have come from Skagway or Juneau from coming over. As we get to the gate to pay we are surprised that they only charged us senior price (didn’t see any signs for senior rate) so $6.00 per person instead of $15.00. Lucky! As we wander around we finish most of the fair in an hour (maybe less) and on the way out meet Lisa and Bill (LaGrange couple) whom had just arrived at the fair. We chat a bit then go our separate ways agreeing to sit at a campfire this evening. On our final stroll through the Dalton City (White Fang Exhibit) portion of the fair we come across a singer / songwriters open mic program going on at the beer garden. This turns out to be the high point of our fair visit…as we grab some beers and enjoy the show!
Southeast Alaska State Fair…
Southeast Alaska State Fair…
Singers-Songwriters & Beer Garden showcase…
Southeast Alaska State Fair… Haines, AK
Jack London’s famous White Fang Movie Set…Dalton City
Some more views from the campsite & campfire back at Oceanside RV Park…
When we get back to the camper Mike starts a real fire in our fire pit again at the edge of the cliff and our new friends join us. Unfortunately Mike and I had not had dinner yet and as the evening goes on we realize we will be hungry tonight!! A very nice evening though!
Saturday is an iffy day but we had heard about a parade through town at 11:00 celebrating fair weekend. We walk up and enjoy the short and fun parade (what you would expect of a very small town!). Joanne manages to snag three pieces of parade chocolate so she is a happy camper! From there we head out to visit the fish cannery and possibly do a hike off the Mud Bay Road area near the cannery. The cannery has a “self guided tour” but unfortunately most of the work is already done for the day and we just see them cleaning all the machinery and work area.
A few parade pics…
A few parade pics…
From there we head to the Mount Riley trailhead. This is noted as a moderate 2.8 mile (one way) hike. As we begin we notice bear scat (fresh!) on the trail so we are thankful we remembered our bells and spray! We still are careful and carry on a good amount of conversation to alert any bears in the area that we are there. As we get deeper into the trail we realize this is a more difficult trail than we anticipated. But we are prepared with trekking poles, various layers of clothing, and plenty of water. We are alone on the trail except for a young couple that is running the trail! Yikes- to be young again!
Taking a Hike in Haines, AK…
Taking a Hike in Haines, AK…
The trail is covered with roots so we are careful to watch every footing and that takes our eyes off the surrounding area for wildlife. Switchbacks and elevation add to the challenge of this hike and several areas are washed out making the climb between steps a chore. On the descent the young couple passes us again and warn us about a moose that charged them higher up. They looked a bit shaken by it and as we conversed on the trail it turns out that she is from Newburgh, NY!! What are the odds!
We finish the hike tired but with a feeling of accomplishment.
Back at the camper we relax in the front of the coach looking out over the water with a glass of wine celebrating another great day in Alaska… Dinner is a BLT salad and then it’s early to bed. We feel like we’ve done a great job with Haines!!
Wednesday 7/28/2019:
We knew today would be a long day of driving from Haines to White Horse, YT our goal. As we get close we try a Government Campground to the west just before we pulled into Whitehorse but there was not one site available. This is the first time this has happened, and we always know it is a possibility when reservations are not made our traditional style for sure. We have some errands to do in Whitehorse so we get those done then continue the drive hoping we come across something. As luck would have it we pull into the next Government campground (Marsh Lake Yukon Government CG) directly on the east side of Whitehorse and there are only two spots taken; go figure!! We get a pull through site, grab some free firewood and relax. Our holding tanks are good, fuel is full, and we have stocked up on groceries/wine so we are good to go for a few days!!
Another Yukon Government Campground….
A view of the famous Muncho Lake form the ALCAN…
7/29/2019:
Another long day of driving and although the scenery is always beautiful, these long driving days are exhausting. We are looking forward to getting to Watson Lake and checking out the sign post forest. Joanne’s Mom and Dad left their duck sign there 26 years ago and Joanne’s sister Deb and husband Tony left their sign there 5 years ago. We find Watson Lake Yukon Government Campground just before pulling into town so we pull off to check it out. Ugh! The road in is HORRIBLE! About 6 km of pot holes, washboard and just in general a slow going, stressful route/access road. Once we get in it’s not bad and we set up and get organized. We had gassed up on the way in and sort of checked out the Sign Post Forest finding Deb and Tony’s but not finding Mom and Dads signs/contributions.?
Sign Post Forest…
Our first attempt at a sign…this one broke!
Our 2nd attempt at a sign…
Success and now we have a sign in the Sign Forest…
More pics of the famous Sign Forest…
We still wanted to check out the visitors center / Alaska Highway museum so we plan to get an early start in the morning to do these on the way (and also get a little more Canadian cash for the remainder of the time we are in the country. The museum is interesting, the visitors center rep is full of info for our next few stops and we take another sweep through the sign post forest. We look again at the sign we posted- we had originally thought we wouldn’t leave a sign (seemed kind of corny), but once there we regretted not planning and we made an impromptu sign using an apple cutting board and sharpie! Not sure how long it will last but it’s there! We posted our sign in the second row facing the Northern Lights Centre. It is the 3rd-4th sign up from the bottom. It is wooden cutting board of wood (small). Then we hit the road for another long driving day.
Wildlife along the Alaska Highway is pretty spectacular! although we have seen plenty of wildlife the last couple of months we can see why people often talk about their first experiences when they travel north into the Yukon and Alaska… We just are seeing it all on our way South and out…
Some more Bears…
Big Horn Sheep…
More sheep herds…
An elusive Grey wolf…
7/30/2019:
Today we land at Liard Hot Springs and Hope we get one of the first come first served camping spots. The drive is longer than we anticipate and as we pull in it already looks full. We drive through and there is literally one spot left #48) which is shared with another camper. Since there are 5 campers behind us we grab it quickly but have to tie up traffic as we unhitch the toad then back in. I won’t lie when I say the traffic behind us are not happy- but given the layout of the park we have no choice- and you would think other campers would realize this.
Once we are situated we put our suits on and go lounge in the hot springs pools for a bit of time. It is sunny but not too hot so we really enjoy it. If you camp here you use the pools for free but outsiders only pay $5.00 CA so it’s not pricey at all. This is a good stop!
Liard River Hotsprings…
Since starting this Alska adventure we have heard many stories about the famous Cinnamon Buns that can be found here in the North Country. Everyone has a story about their favorite. Since we have been good the entire trip we felt it was a must on these last days to finally sample a Cinnamon Bun. Are we ever glad we waited until now. We pulled into the famous “Tetsa River Lodge” at mile 375 of the Alaska Highway to order one at their proclaimed “Cinnamon Bun Centre of the Galactic Cluster”… Now I have no idea what that means but I’ve got to tell you it was incredible and worth the wait….Yum… Double YUM (with Emphasis)…
Testa River Lodge…
Cinnamon Buns of the Galactic Cluster…
7/31/2019:
Our next stop is Fort Nelson where Mike is hoping to get an oil change. As luck would have it they are doing road work on Main Street in town with a lot of dirt and gravel down. Just as we pull in a passing truck going way too fast throws up a rock and we now have our first chip in the MH windshield. A big one at that?. A quick stop at the visitors center and he gets some information about an oil change and successfully gets an appointment for the following morning at 8, at Dalex Automotive right on Main Street. He asks the receptionist there if there is anyone that fixes windshield chips and gives a call to Service Glass who actually come right out immediately to the campground to repair it!
We find a convenient but basic campground right across the street from Dalex called BlueBelle Motel with basic RV park behind it. Although it’s basic it has an awesome clean, hot shower, that we are so happy to have available to us! After showering in the rig, while dry camping for so long, it is nice to let that hot water run for as long as we want. It feels like total luxury!
Thursday 8/1/2019:
This morning, while Mike gets the oil changed, I get some laundry done as the laundry facility is right next to the campground. There isn’t a lot of laundry to do, as we are pretty caught up, though it’s cheap and convenient. Once those chores are done we see there is a truckers breakfast place in the same area so we decide to take advantage of it! Unfortunately, as we come out to hitch up the car and put the protective blanket on, it begins to pour. By the time we finish we are soaked and it stops raining! Have to laugh though- all part of the adventure!!
So we get a later start than we anticipated leaving Forth Nelson. Today we will drive to the end of our Alaska Highway adventure . Most people travel north through Dawson City and start their Alaska Highway adventure here, though since we entered from the West Coast into British Columbia we have actually done the Alaska Highway in reverse of many others, hence the famous “Welcome to the Alaska Highway Sign” and traditional tourist picture will ironically be taken today (our last day on this long trip into the Great Northern frontier…)
Last Stop on the Alaska Highway… Dawson Creek
Continuing south on this long day of driving we come across a municipal park right on Main Street in the town of Hythe, Alberta. (Yes we are putting another Canadian Province on our wall map tonight…) We originally had driven past the park, but see how nice it is, so u-turn around to check it out. For $15.00 US we can park (really anywhere) in the grassy overflow so we don’t have to disconnect. After a call to the manager we settle in, pay at the kiosk and pick up the free firewood he told us about! A fire and a glass of wine and we are good! A nice quiet night as we leave our Alaska Adventure behind us and look forward to our next stop going South on this Revolutionary Journey….
Welcome to Alberta, Canada
Checking off another Province with our first night’s stay in Alberta, Canada…
