Summer 2015 – The Maritimes -Nova Scotia, Newfoundland & Labrador – Part (2)
7/15/15 We decide to move on from St Johns. We are happy to leave Pippy Park, the city behind, and begin our drive of the “Irish Loop” . The “Irish Loop” and Cape Shore areas are the scenic lower/southern half of the Avalon Peninsula. It runs from St. Johns to Trepassey. The loop is aptly named for the people that settled these unbelievable quaint small towns and communities. While some people say it’s a half day trip you can easily spend much more time if you want. So much to see and experience here. Unfortunately for us the weather is not cooperating, at all, and we are driving in rain and heavy fog nearly the entire day. I can tell you what we saw was beautiful and can’t imagine what more would have been viewed had the sun cooperated. So many spots that we would have loved to boondock at (or gravel pit camped as they say in Newfoundland), if we had better weather and more time. Next trip we will definitely do this. One of these places was BEAR Ccove and another was St. Vincents. You could have parked right on the water at either.
Since the weather was’t cooperating we decide to stop for lunch at the “The Cladaugh Inn” in St. Marys, NL. This was a very quaint Inn and the staff were very friendly. Next stop isinterpretation Center in Trepassey and then on to the Salmonier Nature Park. Having been driving nearly the entire day in rain and heavy fog even though it is still drizzling we need to get out and walk for awhile. The trail/hike at the Nature Park is well marked and is just what we need to stretch our legs. After the hike we discuss options for the balance of the day. It’s still raining and since we really don’t have more time to spend in this area and the weather hasn’t cooperated we decide to take leave of the Irish Loop and start driving North. This is a stretch for us, after such a long day already, though we hope to arrive and enjoy the some hiking on the Kittiwake Coast and Trinity/Bonavista tomorrow. We decide to stay at a campground called Thorburn Lake which allows us to leave the camper here while we explore the Kittiwake Coast the next 2 days.
7/16/15 We head towards Trinity a place we have heard and read much about. On the way we pass a campground called Cabot Campground that might have worked well for us instead of Thorburn Lake though we will just have to make a note for future trips. Just a word of caution, the road to Trinity is not good. Very rough and we are glad we have left our trailer at the campsite. We drive to Trinity and find the cutest fishing village you can imagine: the houses, hills, coastline, clouds, views, and people all make this a magical place to visit. We highly recommend a stop to Trinity for pictures. Their is a little theater (Rising Tide Theater) that we wish our schedule would have allowed time to attend for the evening though it just won’t work for this visit. After wandering around Trinity and taking plenty of pictures we decide that a hike we had been recommended would be the next stop.
Skerwink Trail just north of Trinity might be one of the most diverse and picturesque hikes we have ever taken. Whales, Icebergs, Capelin Rolling , Wild Flowers, and unbelievable cliff views all make this a must hike for anyone visiting the Trinity area. If you really want to know why New Foudland is so special you just have to go to Trinity and then take a hike on the Skerwink Trail.
Departing Trinity we decide to head towards Elliston to see the Puffin birds up close. We park along the road, adjacent to the old root cellars that are all over this area, and take a hike to the Puffin site. These birds are just the cutest things you have ever seen and I just can’t get enough pictures of them at play. The Elliston Puffin site is a very informal stop which gets you up and close to these beautiful little birds. Today is quickly becoming our most favorite day of this trip. Before leaving Elliston we take a tour of the Sealers Memorial . This statue and the story of the lives of sealers and fathers/sons is a heart breaking tribute to those hardy souls and families that worked in the sealing industry under just the toughest weather conditions imaginable. After grabbing some pictures we decide to visit the Sealing Interpretation Center as well in Downtown Elliston.
It’s about 5:30 now so we figure it’s time to head to a grocery and the long trek back to the campground. The small markets are probably a tad bit more pricey than a larger stores which are very hard to find in this area. We decide to skip the bottle of wine that is $27.00 here rather than $12.99 in the states, Practically everything is imported here and the price reflects that. Finishing the loop drive from this area is picturesque and we arrive home about 8:00 PM. A little late for a formal dinner so we decide to just have some cheeses and crackers, and finish the wine brought from home. The campfire is an excellent way to finish a day while we look over some pictures of a day. We head to the showers before getting in bed. Just like last year the showers take Loonies ($1.00 CN coins). A few showers on this trip and last year’s have taken Toonies ($2.00 CN coins). Loonies & Toonies are just part of visiting Canada.
7/17/15 We must be tired from that very full day yesterday as we sleep late for us. Today after packing and hitching up we are headed to Tera Nova National Park. We arrive a the park still early enough for a late breakfast at a cafe near the entrance of the park. We decide to leave the truck and camper at the visitors center and take a trail called the Coastal Trail. Round trip is probably 4 KM. While it’s another beautiful coastal hike with a nice waterfall about 1/2 way we found ourselves comparing it to the Skerwick Trail which just isn’t fair. I hope we don’t measure every hike we take in the future to Skerwink Trail. Returning from the hike we decide to move on from Tera Nova and continue towards New Wes Valley. We have read about place called “The Barbour Village” . Following the signs there seems to be a little harder and includes us attempting a U-turn on the road. Did I mention between the truck and trailer we are over 46ft long. I have only attempted this onnce and the stress that resulted in my trying it taught us an important lesson. The road was narrow and had no shoulders, like most roads in this area, and as soon as I tried to swing cars appeared in both directions. I will never forget this mistake of a U-turn. We finally get turned around and get to Barbour Village for a tour. It is a quaint town though we both agree the stress of the U-turn was not worth the stop.
We leave Barbour Village and are headed to Musgrave Harbor to camp for the night on the coast. About 5 miles before there we discover a beautiful place to boondock along the coast for free. We scope out the area and talk to a couple of friendly locals camping in the area and decide to take a chance on this beautiful spot. Did i mention that we are parked less than 100 feet rom the ocean with roaring waves and icebergs right in front us. We have a terrific meal and sit out side enjoying the view and sunset. At 2:00 am we wake to a torrential downpour and very high winds. Being in a Hybrid, our tent end is under tremendous stress given the conditions. I decide that the best thing is to put up the bunk if possible, before we incur too much damage. Now mind you we have been in storms before though this was an entirely different level and we were in the middle of nowhere. After considerable effort we got the canvas closed and bunker down for th rest of the night. We both were very glad we hadn’t unhitched as the wind was so powerful it could have flipped our trailer. We both woke up around 6:00 am though in reality neither of us slept much this night . We decided since the weather was so bad and the waves were crashing so close to us it was prudent to get out of there before the ground got so soft we might not be able to. Swinging out of that location, that looked so promising just 12 hours earlier, was probably the best decision we could made. At least we have story for the family. Another thing we learned that night was how to set-up without lowering any of the hybrid tent ends. This trip we will probably have to do this again. I haven’t mentioned it much though Newfoundland is not a place where shorts and short sleeves are used much.. Especially this summer. Many people were telling us this was the coldest and worst July weather they could remember. We had to run the heat in our unit nearly every night even though it was the middle of the summer.
7/18/15 We are heading towards Gander, NL. Since it is so early and the weather is just terrible we decide to get breakfast at a place called Country Kitchen. It’s a cute place, with a delicious breakfast and very reasonable. After breakfast we find a the first Walmart in sometime and decide to re-provison. We couldn’t get everything we wanted and spot a grocery store calle Dominion. This grocery is top notch. It’s right off the TCH (Trans Canadian Highway).
Gander, NL is famous for it’s air force base and the place that many flights were directed on 9/11. The Aviation Museum is very informative about the history and the on 9/11 area is just so interesting. True to what we have found in nearly every New Foundlander they are are hearty people that are quick to open their homes and hearts to all that visit. This hospitality is no more evident than the families that did just that during 9/11. So many unbelievable stories of families helping families during this tragic event. Many of these Newfoundland families have become close extended families to so many from the states.
We left Gander and headed towards Twilingate, NL.Twilingate is known as Iceberg Ally. Many people have cautioned us not to take the trailer all the way up to Twillingate, because the roads, though we decide we would drive until we felt too uncomfortable. We were looking for a campground with electric and a place to catch up on some laundry if possible. We had looked for a laundromat in Gander though couldn’t find one. We have loved the Provincial Parks and decided to stop at Dildo Run a little bit before Twinlingate. The park is nice along with good Laundry facilities though with no electric hook-ups we deicide to pass. The campground is very nice though ultimately would have been more expensive than the private one in Twillingate with electric. Also, we would have had to buy a day pass for $6.00 each day along with the camp fee. We decide to continue on the Twillingate.
We drive all the way to the far end of Twillingate . Some hills and curves but no more than Cape Breton or places we have driven out West. We arrive at Peyton’s Woods Camground (best signage yet). They offer us something close to he water but after the night before we opt for something more secluded protecting us from the wind. The weather just hasn’t been good and our hope of going kayaking or cod fishing, while in Twillingate, doesn’t look promising. Today is opening day for Cod Fish Season and we are told most fisherman will just take you along if you ask. After getting set-up we start on our laundry duties. We have a lot to do, as we haven’t any in several weeks. While talking to the owners we find a sign for a dinner theater in town. They say it’s great and many visitors go. We contact the ticket office and make reservations. It’s a Lobster dinner with wine and a dinner show put on by locals. The show is excellent. We meet a very nice couple camping from Calgary and another from Germany at dinner.
7/19/15 Time to discover Twillingate. We opt for the longest hiking trail on the map and have an incredible day. We visit the Twillingate lighthouse and have a terrific time hiking around Twillingate. After the hikes we decide to go to t he dock and buy some more lobster for dinner at the camper. We had hoped we could see the famous :” “Split Peas” Musical Group in Twinlingate togged unfortunately the show was offered this evening. Instead we decide to attend a local Shed party/kitchen party. Driving the route along the coast given by the campground people we were growing a little skeptical and then we came upon a little house and sign “Shed Party Here” You just park on the lawn and then go into the person’s garage. It seemed a little sketchy though what heck we were altrwady way out here. The host is Karren Churchill .
Karren and her family are incredible and put on one of the best shows you can imagine. It’s is informal and we met so many others just like us form all over the world just coming here to hear an play music. Oh I forgot to mention this a participant show and each of us was given some type of home-made instrument form New foubdland to play and contribute drug the evening. One of those instruments is a “Ugly Stick” which is the craziest instrument I have ever seen. Not having really much musical ability I played and carried my “Ugly Stick ” with pride this evening and actually developed a marginal ability before the night was over. Karren is a great guitar player and absolutely gets everyone involved. This was the best $10.00 show we have ever been too and highly recommend it to anyone that can go.
7/20/2015 We wake up after another full nights sleep. We are having to run the heater every night here. It’s been as low as the teens but misting in the low 30’s and it is July. Can;t imagine how cold it gets here in the winter months. Today we decide to do a hike at “French Beach and Spiller’s cove. Todays’ hike is challenging in parts with some scrambling up the rocks. At times it’ isn’t marked well so you can start on one trail and find yourself on another.We both are glad we have our hiking boots from Oboz today. sneakers would not have worked well for todays hike. We came across an interesting couple while hiking today that we spent nearly and hour along the trail talking too about travel. they are older than us and have gone on some pretty amazigb adventures. they had just returned from an Anartica Trip. Continuing on the hike we ended up on a brawls that went for about 1.5 miles through wet meadows and finally dumped us in a residential area. We had to hike considerable distance back to our truck at the trail head.
On the way home we treated ourselves to some ice cream for lunch. We decide to do the “Prime Berth” museum which is near the causeway. Although an eclectic group of fishing information I’m not sure if I would do again htogiuh the most fun was watchigb a bat retiring form Cod Fishing and watchigb them scale and fit the large Cod’s caught that day. this was very interestigb and the fisherman was fun to listen to.
Since it had rained most of the day and is still cold we decide to return top the campground and cook up some Chili for dinner. While gone for the day an Adventure Caravan’s tour of campers has arrived at Peyton Woods taking nearly all remaining campsites. We strike up some conversations with our new neighbors and learn about their trip and Adventure Caravvan’s. Probably will need to learn more about this group and company as it might be a good way to discover Mexico in the future.
Peyton woods Campgroud is a place we would recommend in Twillingate. I’ts convent and the facilities are good. Paying for showers and laundry is an honor system though us campers are an honest group. while only having 2 toilets and 2 showers we never had to wait and they had plenty of hot water without having to constantly add Loonies or Toonies…
7/21/15 we depart for Grand Falls Windsor. the weather is rainy and cold again . we decide to stop at the Salmonid Interpretation Center and have a nice lunch and get to see the Salmon Ladder. Their is an indoor education center where you can see the salmon making the climb up the ladder through the glass. The observation deck is pretty cool and you have a great view of the falls. Wewere told there by some people that icebergs were up at King’s Point and to check in at the website Iceberg Finder. We decided to make a detour off the TCH and go and check it out since we really hadn’t seen any icebergs in Twillingate. As we approached Kings Point there in front of us were several very large Icebergs trapped in the cove. Some were so close to shore that you could pick up pieces. Pretty cool to be able to walk around with 10,000 year old ice. Driving along the cove we came upon a little campground with about 12 sites right on the water infront of the icebergs. We inquired about camping there, at the gas station across the street, and they said it was $18.00 a night including water, electric, hot showers, and free wifi. Two sites still available and we decided to take one of them. Kings Point Campground turned out to be a little an unexpected gem where we could camp conveniently next to some very large icebergs about 5 feet from the shore.
We soon met a very nice couple next to us in a small Unity Camper , both in there mid 80′, and they had already traveled 10,000 miles since leaving Washington State. Another couple more local was on the other side and they warned us that in the middle of the night we might hear a large sound , which would be the iceberg splitting so don’t be alarmed. They were right! In the middle of the their was a thunderous noise from that splitting iceberg. The next morning we awoke to dozens of smaller bergs floating to shore.
7/22/15 We head to Grose Morne National Park RV Campground about midway into the park. Note: get you groceries in Grand Fall Windsor as their isn’t anything in Gros Morne close.
To be continued…. in New Foundland Part(3)